Neapolitan Tailoring
How We Tailor
Our Atelier's Style - Neapolitan Tailoring
To say that we tailor in the Italian spirit is a bit like saying we like cars with a prancing horse in the logo — they're all great, but every one is entirely different.
The most important and also the most demanding part of Neapolitan tailoring is the shoulder. On most jackets you'll come across stiff, heavily padded shoulders, which are very characteristic of British and Roman tailoring.
This way of tailoring helps to disguise many tailoring shortcomings.
In Neapolitan tailoring, jacket shoulders are made without any padding! It takes a true magician to make a shoulder that is soft, rounded, and that still moulds to the body as it is worn.
A Neapolitan jacket has a high-cut armhole, which gives freedom of movement while preserving a light, elegant appearance. We set the sleeves by hand and, at the client's request, create a spalla camicia — which leaves grinze, the small, characteristic ripples at the shoulder seam.
A tailoring novice may view these as an imperfection, but devotees of the style appreciate the fine craftsmanship and understated beauty they bring. Whether the sleeve is set smoothly or features grinze, the central shoulder seam is angled towards the back. According to Neapolitan tailors, this helps to embrace the wearer's neck "comme l'abbraccio 'e n'amico" (like a friend's embrace).
The shoulders alone don't determine whether a jacket has been made in the Neapolitan style. It must also have generous lapels with a high-set belly. This creates the impression of an athletic V-shaped silhouette. Remember, Italian tailoring is a game of details!
Neapolitan jackets feature a barchetta (boat-shaped) breast pocket, are fastened with two and a half buttons, and have pignata pockets reminiscent of a brandy glass — a relaxed touch that isn't required on more formal jackets.
At the client's request, we add a double-row of stitching — doppio impuntura — which is the true crowning glory of Neapolitan tailoring.
We cater to a generation that values comfort and breathability, yet is unwilling to sacrifice elegance in the pursuit of it.
Construction - A luxurious fabric and a great cut aren't everything!
The construction — the inside of the jacket — matters just as much. It largely determines the quality and the pleasure of wearing it.
Our exclusive suits and jackets are made using Full Canvas and Half Canvas construction (in other words, fully and half canvassed). That means that inside the jacket, instead of glue, you'll find a canvas interlining that allows the jacket to breathe and drape beautifully.
Canvas construction also means durability! You know that unpleasant feeling when you collect your jacket from the dry cleaner and see bubbles all across the front?
That means the fused interlining inside the jacket has lifted, and the jacket will never look the way it used to. With canvas construction there's no such risk — because there's nothing to lift!
The canvas helps distribute the tension from the stress points at the shoulders and elbows, ensuring the best possible drape!
Canvas construction is for the man who's looking for a well-constructed suit that strikes the perfect balance between quality and luxury. Canvas also comes at a higher price, as it involves more work and a higher level of complexity in the tailoring. Given that we use fabrics from the world's top mills, no other construction was ever really on the table — using fused interlining with Loro Piana would be a bit like fitting hubcaps on a Bentley.
We approach the tailoring of our suits with Italian finesse, delivering to the clients and friends of our tailoring atelier garments that we would most happily wear ourselves!
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